SET a stone’s throw from the busy stretch in The Oracle’s riverside terrace, this historic location in Reading is a quiet and pleasant way to escape the crowds.

Split over three floors and with the chain’s token pick-of-the-day counter displaying fresh fish to be cooked as you like, there are no surprises for those who know the company. But friendly staff and a homely wooden interior gives this branch a more relaxed feel than some of the other city centre outlets.

I have to admit a real penchant for seafood, which means looking at the Loch Fyne menu for me is like a kid entering a sweetie shop. There are staples like fish and chips and bowls of seafood risotto or pasta for the more reserved palate.

But those wishing to push the boat out can opt for haggis and scallops or the delicious whole baked sea bass. If you’re a meat lover you may be left disappointed as only the house burger and vegetarian options were available.

The mussels in a creamy white wine sauce made an excellent starter and were only missing a good wedge of farmhouse white to mop up the sweet and salty sauce.

For a taste of everything the management recommended the Seafood Grill which at £19.95 sits at the higher end of the à la carte menu’s prices. The plate offers a tantalising taste of what could be ordered in full-on future visits with salmon fillet, gilt-head bream, scallops, king prawns and even more of the juicy rope-grown mussels. Drenched in butter and with a generous portion of new potatoes — and washed down with a bottle of Old Gold Hen — this is a dish that requires a hefty appetite.

The star of the show was the whole-baked sea bass with chilli and coriander butter. Squeamish diners may not appreciate the eyes of their dinner staring back at them but I am always reassured when the chef is happy to serve a fish whole. Beautifully cooked and oozing flavour, all that was needed afterwards was a slice of sticky toffee pudding shared between two to end the evening on a sweet note.

Restaurant: Loch Fyne, The Maltings Bear Wharf, Fobney Street, Reading, RG1 6BT

Prices: Starters from £4.95, Mains from £11.95, Desserts from £4.95

Contact: 0118 918 5850

www.lochfyneseafoodandgrill.co.uk